Chendamangalam handloom sarees – Traditional Kerala saree
Chendamangalam Panchayat in Paravur Taluk, Ernakulam District, Central Kerala is known for its handloom industry. Chendamangalam handloom sarees and dhotis are woven using natural cotton fibers organically processed under specific temperature and sunlight avoiding any chemical substance involvement and completely using manual labor. These fabrics made exclusively from organic cotton fibers are both skin and environment friendly. This weaving tradition was started by Devanga Chettiar community who were settled at Chendamangalam in the 16th century for Paliath Achan family the hereditary Prime minister of the Kingdom of Cochin.
They started by weaving fine muslin dhotis that could pass ring test. The handloom tradition flourished into sarees and other fabrics under the nobles of Cochin. Diminishing patronage during early 20th century led to loss of weaving opportunities. However, through Chendamangalam Handloom Co-operative Society formed in 1954 and The Kerala Co-operative Society Act of 1969 the handloom witnessed revival.
Like in other parts of Kerala, weavers in Chendamangalam were under official patronage of the feudal family of Paliam, who served as chief ministers for the Rajas of Cochin. In terms of the actual process, Chendamangalam textiles are woven on frame looms, and their texture is slightly heavier than similar fabrics from Balaramapuram.
Chendamangalam shot into media attention during the Kerala floods last year, thanks to a few designers and handloom enthusiasts who shared the devastation faced by the handloom weavers in the area on social media. The entire manufacturing unit was submerged during the floods, and 35 looms were damaged. This cooperative society, founded in 1957, is one of the oldest in the locality. The society has 115 members. There are 35 weavers working on looms in the manufacturing unit and the rest work from home. Around 99 looms associated with this society have been damaged, along with yarn stock.
Of the 62 looms at the Society, only three are operated by men, the rest are all operated by women weavers. Both male and female weavers receive same wages here. The yarn, thread and dye solutions are provided by various handloom weavers cooperative societies. Weavers work at home and provide the finished product to these societies, getting around Rs. 60 for a metre-long textile.
The typical Chendamangalam mundu or settu mundu has coloured borders with a matching colour stripe, and only small amounts of kasavu for ornamentation. The saree is distinguished by its puliyila kara (tamarind leaf border), a thin black line that runs abreast with the sari’s selvedge. It also has extra-weft chuttikara and stripes and checks of varying width. The saree is a typical Kerala sari and has Kasavu used in it. This sarees are made with high thread count in the range of 80 – 120 and needs two to four days of manual labour.
Chendamangalam Dhotis and set Mundu was accorded Geographical Indication GI Tag in 2012 due to the efforts of Chendamangalam Handloom Weavers Co Operative Society that was formed in 1955.
The special cover issued to commemorate the GI Tag for Chendamangalam Handlooms and as part of the National Postal Week Celebrations features a line graphic illustration of weaver working at the manually operated loom, colour photographs of coloured cotton threads, dhotis and set Mundus against the background of a close up image of a pair of hands threading the loom. The cover also carries the logos of the Chendamangalam Handloom Weavers Co Operative Society and the Azadi ka Amrit Mahotsav. The special pictorial cancellation is a line graphic sketch of knitted threads. This special cover issued on 12-10-2021 (KL31/2021).
